The coast of Orissa forms a highly complex yet dynamic
eco-system, comprising of a myriad of wetlands, deltas, mangroves,
and mudflats- truly an ecologist's paradise! These factors make the
coastline of Orissa an ideal habitat for many species like the
estuarine crocodile, fresh and brackish water terrapins, dolphins,
porpoises and the most vulnerable sea turtles. There are four
species of sea turtles (out of the seven in the world) found in
Orissa - the Olive Ridley, the Hawksbill, the Leatherback and the
Green Sea Turtle. Orissa is known the world over for its arribada's
- synchronized mass nesting of Ridleys. These turtles nest here in
thousands every year during winter at three beaches: Devi,
Gahirmata, and Rushikulya.
Ironically, today these famous nesting sites have virtually
turned into their graveyards, with the reported killing of over
5,000 turtles this year. In Orissa, the most profound impact on
Olive Ridley turtles is posed by fishing trawlers and destructive
fishing practices such as bottom trawling. Last year, nearly 7,500
turtles had died along the Orissa coast. The toll has already
crossed a whopping 1,20,000 mark during the last 12 years.
In
November 2004, Rainbow Warrior, the flagship of Greenpeace, was on
a tour of the Eastern coast of India to raise profile of rich
marine ecosystems, fragile habitats and endangered creatures of the
Bay of Bengal. At Orissa, in addition to highlighting the threats
that face the Bhitarkanika Sanctuary, Greenpeace along with it's
supporters called on promoters of the proposed port at Dhamra, the
Orissa Government and TATAs to abandon the project, as it would
destroy the natural wealth of the region as well as one of the last
mass nesting sites in the world.
My journey back to Orissa was to check on whether any change for
the better had happened on ground, in lieu of promises and
commitments we received from politicians, governmental departments
and supposedly concerned corporations on my last visit there,
during the ship tour. My first stop-over was Bhubaneshwar, where
for the first time, constituents from civil society, including
fishworker unions, conservation and environmental organizations,
turtle biologists and scientists and individuals interested in sea
turtle conservation measures and in the welfare of fisheries in
Orissa came together to form the Orissa Marine Resources
Conservation Consortium (OMRCC). This informal coalition is pushing
for a participatory approach to be adopted, wherein conservation of
marine resources of the state, including sea turtles, be driven by
all stakeholders, and especially, local fishing communities. The
OMRCC's formation is a landmark as it provides a platform for
involving coastal communities in developing management measures
including temporal and spatial regulations of fishing and
restrictions on the use of certain kinds of gear.
Several
thousands of fisherfolk from all categories of fishing communities
are dependent on the marine resources of Orissa for their
livelihoods. The poorer sections of fishing communities,
particularly those from the traditional sector, have already
experienced a decline in their catch. This is attributed mainly to
over-harvesting of marine life using destructive fishing practices
such as bottom trawling.
Trawlers are the biggest culprits in making the Orissa coastline
a graveyard for Olive Ridleys - even though this species is
protected under the schedule I list of the Wildlife (Protection)
Act and enlisted as endangered in the IUCN Red Data Book. I realize
that I need to understand the reality of the traditional fisherman
better and decide to head for the fishing hamlet of Gondalba,
located adjacent to the Devi nesting beach. My guide is Tukku, from
the Green Life Rural Turtle Association, which works on the
conservation of Ridleys along with Operation Kachhapa. Tukku and
his team of dedicated volunteers, monitor a stretch of around 70
kms of beach to keep a record of number of turtles which are washed
ashore dead. The River-mouth area of Devi and adjoining areas have
been in the eye of the storm. Tukku paints a grim picture as he
talks of increasing mortality of turtles, rampant illegal trawling
in the area and the harassment of traditional fishermen by officers
from the Fisheries and Forest Department.
Our
sojourn begins in the morning next day with a boat ride. We head
out to sea, to the congregation zone of turtles, near the Devi
River mouth. It feels wonderful to be finally at sea and even
better that the sea is dead calm. Adjusting my eyes to the glaze on
the water from blazing sunshine, I hope to be the first to spot a
turtle. A few minutes later, we spot the first turtle, which dives
as we approach, only to bob up further away. As we continue, we
spot a few single turtle heads disappear beneath the surface. The
next few turtles we see are at quite some distance. As we get
closer I realize that half of the male's shell (identifiable by the
predominantly long tail) is completely dry, suggesting that he has
been floating in this position for some time. Unlike the others, he
is oblivious to our presence and we take time to watch him while
our photographer gets busy clicking away.
Back
on the beach, set before me is a stunning vista - about a dozen
boats, their colorful paintwork cracked by the sun. I notice
fishermen from the nearby village working on their boats and
stitching their nets. It is hard to view these vessels as agents of
destruction. As I strike a conversation with them they explain in
broken Hindi and Oriya, that they fish all night, often going out
to sea at 10 am only to return at around 5 am the next morning. It
is quite clear that these people are fishing simply to provide
enough food for their families and often lose their nets to the
bigger mechanized boats. Even to the uninformed it is quite clear
that fishermen of this kind are definitely not responsible for
mounting mortality of turtles along the coast of Orissa.
In
the afternoon, we walk on a section of the turtle-nesting beach. I
have never been on such a beach, a stretch of white sand that
stretches seemingly forever. However the notion of paradise soon
vanishes when we come across the remains of an Olive Ridley, the
first of many. Clear clues as to what had caused the deaths of
these turtles are all around us. Along the tide line, bits of
fishing net and broken plastic fishing buoys are scattered. It can
be assumed that the dead turtles found and counted on the beach
represent only a tiny fraction of the total losses.
I
pick my way up the beach a little further until I finally reach the
fishing hamlet. Women cook and wash and clean in little huts,
getting water from a pump. It is a smallish village, with about 80
families living here, all of whom are dependent on the sea for a
living. As I talk to many of the men and women, it becomes clear
that these simple fisherfolk, who rely on traditional methods, are
definitely being made a scapegoat in the whole affair. The boats
and nets they use are not capable of catching turtles, even if they
desire to do so.
Existing laws and legislations have taken a balanced view
between conservation and livelihood issues . Increase in mortality
rates of turtles over the years is due to the lack of enforcement
of the legal and policy instruments. Infact the Central Empowered
Committee has explicitly stated that mechanisms of enforcement and
conservation need to be participatory and should involve the
traditional fishermen. The orders have clearly given rights to
these fishermen to fish in coastal waters, within the 5 km
boundary, at Devi.
The
lack of awareness amongst these fisher communities and the coastal
inhabitants has further aggravated the situation. The need of the
hour quite clearly seems to be in raising awareness amongst these
fisherfolk, who are equally keen in saving the turtle, as with
their wisdom of the seas, garnered over the centuries, they realize
that turtles and a healthy holistic marine environment are
necessary for their own future.
The State Government and the Forest and Fisheries Department in
particular are responsible for the protection of these turtles.
Ironically, the department has not procured a sea-worthy vessel for
patrolling the coast during the turtle season and chooses to patrol
from the land. This inspite of being provided a grant of Rs. 10
million each for this very purpose 5 years ago. Little wonder then
that patrolling has remained ineffective and inadequate. Moreover,
despite a clear direction to post 10-armed policemen from the
Orissa State Armed Police (OSAP), there is no permanent deployment
of police at the three patrolling stations at Gahirmata, mouth of
the rivers Devi and Rushikulya.
During my visit, senior forest officials had a close shave when
a group of trawler operators, illegally fishing in the turtle
congregation zone, intercepted and held them hostage for over an
hour before they were rescued by DRDO personnel. A fortnight back,
a group of fishermen kidnapped two forest guards when they made an
attempt to seize equipment from them for illegal trawling inside
the restricted zone near the Gahirmata marine sanctuary. If not for
the turtles, doesn't the security of it's own men, warrant the
department to follow rules and get it's act together.
Adding to the woes of the turtles is the decision of corporate
giant, TATAs, to build a port, in the impact zone of the turtle
congregation zone and arribada site, at Dhamra. The intended
purpose of the new port will be as an export point for TATA
products such as steel from the Orissa hinterland but the economic
benefits are highly questionable, not least because the port of
Paradip itself is expanding and is currently under-utilized.
Talking later, off the record, to an official about the proposal,
he confides that the decision whether or not to build the port is
more likely to be based on political considerations rather than
actual need.
On the way back I reflect on my trip. The hope is that this
knowledge followed by the will to act will travel far and wide,
starting with the coastal communities of Orissa, raising awareness
of the beauty and value of the marine environment, which is really
the first step to ensuring this near-pristine environment is left
intact and that the Ridleys can continue to congregate in these
waters in perpetuity.
Sanjiv Gopal
Oceans Campaigner
Greenpeace - India.