It was a beautiful star gazing night last night and almost everyone was out on deck. The moon rose late and the lights on deck were off because we are in transit. In the distance, against the silhouette of the forest, there was an orange glow. Coca said I hope that is the moon. I said, it isn't. I've seen it many times before on this trip, the warm orange glow on the horizon accompanied by a smoky haze in the sky. The distinct smell of burning wood hung in the air.