One day, our ship is docked in Iceland's number one whaling station. The next, the country's number one whale-watching spot. The contrast is striking. Isafjordur, in the stunning west fjords on the northwestern coast, is a sleepy ring of houses, an aging port, and an airstrip clinging to a fjord. Husavik, on the far northern coast of Iceland just on the edge of the arctic circle, is a bustling whale-watching success story.