Guinea —
Crew members from the Esperanza are on the Africa Queen inflatable boat, alongside an anchored trawler. This ship is more rust than metal - it's literally rotting away. The foredeck is covered in broken machinery. The fish deck is littered with frayed cables, and the mast lies horizontally, hanging over the starboard side. A large rusty Chinese character hangs on railings above the bridge, facing forward. It reads 'happiness'.
Zizi - Greenpeace translator from China - shouts a greeting. A man
sticks his head out a door, then picks his way across the deck. He's
the 2nd mate, and says that he's waiting for a new crew, He doesn't
know when they'll arrive. The trawler itself has been anchored here for
three months.
We'd been told that there was a graveyard of abandoned pirate fishing
vessels anchored here, 70 nautical miles (130km) off the coast of
Guinea. We didn't expect to find living people on board the dying
ships, in appalling conditions.
Earlier, on a functioning trawler, a group of young Chinese fisherman
explain that some of them at have been at sea for two years, and that
their trawler hasn't visited a port in eight. On other, anchored, ships
we hear similar stories - of engines that don't work, of crews that
never arrive, of engines that don't work. Some of them are running out
of food, and don't know when supplies will come.
This is the hidden story behind pirate fishing - the conditions of
near-slavery imposed by ruthless fishing companies in the rush for
quick money. The men on board aren't pirates - they're the victims,
left to rot on broken-down trawlers, half a world away from their
families.
These trawlers might be engaged in illegal fishing
activities, stealing fish from the countries of West Africa, but it
seems that the fishermen themselves are just pawns of some
brutal corporate policy, where human life is cheap, and profits take
priority.
These ships seldom, or ever, visit a port. They're re-supplied,
refuelled, re-crewed and transhipped (unloaded) at sea.
The owners and crews don't seem to do any basic maintenance, apart from keeping the
engine and winches running. There's no glass in the portholes, and the
masts are a mess of useless wiring. These floating deathtraps don't
carry any proper safety gear.
Fisheries inspectors have told us of where the fish actually goes.
Caught by Chinese and other trawlers, it's transhipped to several
different vessels. 'High value' stock goes to Las Palmas, in the
Canaries and off to the dinner tables of Europe. The 'dirt' fish is
transhipped to Africa. The Chinese fishermen, it seems, barely get a
look in. 'Happiness' indeed.