{"id":59440,"date":"2023-04-24T17:42:43","date_gmt":"2023-04-24T15:42:43","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.greenpeace.org\/international\/?p=59440"},"modified":"2024-12-16T18:32:00","modified_gmt":"2024-12-16T17:32:00","slug":"enough-circularity-greenwash-slow-fashion-is-the-way-forward","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.greenpeace.org\/international\/story\/59440\/enough-circularity-greenwash-slow-fashion-is-the-way-forward\/","title":{"rendered":"Enough of the circularity greenwash: slow fashion is the way forward"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>This time last year I was standing on a riverbank that was literally made of clothes waste, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.greenpeace.org\/international\/story\/53333\/how-fast-fashion-is-using-global-south-as-dumping-ground-for-textile-waste\/\" data-type=\"URL\" data-id=\"https:\/\/www.greenpeace.org\/international\/story\/53333\/how-fast-fashion-is-using-global-south-as-dumping-ground-for-textile-waste\/\">sifting through the rags with fellow researchers in Nairobi, Kenya<\/a>. Something caught my eye in the homogenous mass of waste &#8211; a label which said &#8216;Conscious&#8217;. A sad end for an item of clothing, which could have been made better, loved more, passed on and repaired \u2013 and when it was really no good anymore, taken apart so that the precious resources it was made of could be recovered and recycled.<\/p>\n\n<p>People in Kenya and other countries of the Global South are being <a href=\"https:\/\/www.greenpeace.org\/international\/publication\/53355\/poisoned-gifts-report-fast-fashion-textile-waste-disguised-as-second-hand-clothes-exported-to-east-africa\/\">overwhelmed by the growing flood of used and rejected clothes from wealthier countries<\/a>, at volumes well beyond the needs and demands of local markets. Over the years they have become less and less useful; while the imported clothes used to be of good quality, now they are poorly made, or stained, broken and unusable. They are <a href=\"https:\/\/www.greenpeace.org\/international\/story\/52154\/africa-waste-colonialism-plastic-treaty\/\">nothing less than plastic waste dumping<\/a>, bringing a series of disasters &#8211; polluting waterways with microplastic fibres, catching on fire in the huge landfills and poisoning the air, or <a href=\"https:\/\/www.greenpeace.org\/international\/story\/48880\/cameroon-plastic-pollution-flood-deaths\/\">blocking the drains during downpours and aggravating flooding<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"684\" src=\"https:\/\/www.greenpeace.org\/static\/planet4-international-stateless\/2023\/04\/8ff934c9-gp1sxb8u-1024x684.jpg\" title=\"Fast Fashion Research in Kenya. \u00a9 Kevin McElvaney \/ Greenpeace\" alt=\"Fast Fashion Research in Kenya. \u00a9 Kevin McElvaney \/ Greenpeace\" class=\"wp-image-59451\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.greenpeace.org\/static\/planet4-international-stateless\/2023\/04\/8ff934c9-gp1sxb8u-1024x684.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.greenpeace.org\/static\/planet4-international-stateless\/2023\/04\/8ff934c9-gp1sxb8u-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.greenpeace.org\/static\/planet4-international-stateless\/2023\/04\/8ff934c9-gp1sxb8u-768x513.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.greenpeace.org\/static\/planet4-international-stateless\/2023\/04\/8ff934c9-gp1sxb8u-510x340.jpg 510w, https:\/\/www.greenpeace.org\/static\/planet4-international-stateless\/2023\/04\/8ff934c9-gp1sxb8u.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Greenpeace visits places of textile production, distribution, markets and waste disposals. Used and new clothes are sent to Kenya from Europe and China to be sold as so called &#8216;Mitumba&#8217; but often they end up as landfill and waste disposal due to the huge amount. Here: Textile waste near Gikomba market in Nairobi. Greenpeace Kenya volunteer and slow fashion influencer Janet Chemitei and Greenpeace Germany campaigner Viola Wohlgemuth show some of the labels they found.<div class=\"credit icon-left\"> \u00a9 Kevin McElvaney \/ Greenpeace<\/div><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Fast fashion exploits workers and will never be green or sustainable<\/h2>\n\n<p>But fashion is no stranger to disaster. Ten years ago today, 1134 people died in the collapsed clothing factory Rana Plaza in Bangladesh. Considered the biggest modern catastrophe in the fashion industry, these people died making clothes for Western consumers.<\/p>\n\n<p>This tragedy has come to symbolise the devastating impacts of fast fashion, not only on workers in supply chains but from the whole life cycle of fashion which exploits people and nature from the cradle to the grave. It led to the creation of <a href=\"https:\/\/www.fashionrevolution.org\/about\/\">Fashion Revolution<\/a>, now the world\u2019s largest fashion activism movement, which has the engagement of many non-governmental organisations (NGOs), including Greenpeace.<\/p>\n\n<p>Garment workers, most of whom are women (making up approximately 80% of the workforce in the garment industry) have been <a href=\"https:\/\/www.care.org\/news-and-stories\/ideas\/raising-their-voices-for-change-women-garment-workers-speak-up\/#:~:text=Women%20make%20up%20around%2080,to%20have%20their%20voices%20heard.\">raising their voices and mobilising for years<\/a> to ask for change, better working conditions, greater union rights and fair and living wages. Survivors of the Rana Plaza collapse are also speaking out and calling out brands that haven&#8217;t contributed to compensation or changed their business practices.<\/p>\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-embed is-type-rich is-provider-twitter wp-block-embed-twitter\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\n<blockquote class=\"twitter-tweet\" data-width=\"500\" data-dnt=\"true\"><p lang=\"en\" dir=\"ltr\">This week, survivors of the Rana Plaza collapse spoke out during a press conference in Dhaka calling out brands that haven&#39;t contributed to compensation despite sourcing from the Rana Plaza factories. Over 50 survivors were present at the event organised by <a href=\"https:\/\/twitter.com\/ngwfinfo?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw\">@ngwfinfo<\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/t.co\/Z447nQzYMF\">pic.twitter.com\/Z447nQzYMF<\/a><\/p>&mdash; Clean Clothes Campaign (@cleanclothes) <a href=\"https:\/\/twitter.com\/cleanclothes\/status\/1649005662674771968?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw\">April 20, 2023<\/a><\/blockquote><script async src=\"https:\/\/platform.twitter.com\/widgets.js\" charset=\"utf-8\"><\/script>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n<p>Our contribution was the successful <a href=\"https:\/\/www.greenpeace.org\/international\/act\/detox\/\">Detox My Fashion<\/a> campaign, which unveiled the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.scientificamerican.com\/article\/greenpeace-finds-waterway-pollutants-in-luxury-fashion-brands\/\">insidious pollution of waterways<\/a> and toxic exposure of workers in the global supply chain. We <a href=\"https:\/\/www.greenpeace.org\/international\/publication\/50922\/self-regulation-fashion-supply-chain-fairytale\/\">confronted global brands and retailers with this reality<\/a> \u2013 and together with Detox supporters, activists and NGOs from around the globe and their creative protests, petitioning and advocacy, we broke the silence around <a href=\"https:\/\/www.greenpeace.org\/international\/press-release\/56979\/taking-the-shine-off-shein-hazardous-chemicals-in-shein-products-break-eu-regulations-new-report-finds\/\">hazardous chemicals in the manufacture of clothing<\/a> \u2013 and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.greenpeace.org\/international\/press-release\/50947\/detoxing-fashion-supply-chains-is-a-game-changer-but-without-regulation-climate-damage-by-the-industry-continues-greenpeace\/\">convinced 29 brands to sign a &#8216;Detox commitment&#8217;<\/a> to achieve zero discharges of hazardous chemicals into waterways and eliminate their use at supply chain factories.<\/p>\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" src=\"https:\/\/www.greenpeace.org\/static\/planet4-international-stateless\/2023\/04\/08617b83-gp04dhe-1024x683.jpg\" title=\"Dye Factory in Shaoxing. \u00a9 Lu Guang \/ Greenpeace\" alt=\"Dye Factory in Shaoxing. \u00a9 Lu Guang \/ Greenpeace\" class=\"wp-image-59443\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.greenpeace.org\/static\/planet4-international-stateless\/2023\/04\/08617b83-gp04dhe-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.greenpeace.org\/static\/planet4-international-stateless\/2023\/04\/08617b83-gp04dhe-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.greenpeace.org\/static\/planet4-international-stateless\/2023\/04\/08617b83-gp04dhe-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.greenpeace.org\/static\/planet4-international-stateless\/2023\/04\/08617b83-gp04dhe-510x340.jpg 510w, https:\/\/www.greenpeace.org\/static\/planet4-international-stateless\/2023\/04\/08617b83-gp04dhe.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">A plant with five dyeing machines will need about 250kg of dye, along with other additives. Aproximately 2500kg of dyestuff paste circulates the plant every day. This plant is located within the Binhai Industrial Zone.<div class=\"credit icon-left\"> \u00a9 Lu Guang \/ Greenpeace<\/div><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n<p>We sowed a seed that is still growing &#8211; there is definitely a before and after Detox in the fashion industry. However, we quickly realised that it was not enough, we were tackling the &#8216;fashion&#8217; but not yet the &#8216;fast&#8217;, this ever-accelerating flow that extracts resources to make garments that are then consumed and discarded as fast as possible, and finally sent far away to become someone else\u2019s problem. So we started focusing on this destructive linear business model and called on brands to &#8216;close the loop&#8217; on the throughput of material resources, but first of all to &#8216;slow the flow&#8217;.<\/p>\n\n<p>By then, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.greenpeace.org\/international\/press-release\/7517\/new-report-breaks-the-myth-of-fast-fashions-so-called-circular-economy-greenpeace\/\">&#8216;circularity&#8217; had already become a buzzword<\/a>. With the EU finally giving value to the idea of optimising the use of depleting resources, fashion brands jumped on the bandwagon. Yet they took the path of least resistance, making magical promises about closing the loop using non-existent recycling technologies for their plastic fossil-fuel reliant polyester apparel, while the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.just-style.com\/news\/greenpeace-report-clothing-sent-to-east-africa-is-mostly-waste\/\">flood of clothes waste from wealthy countries to the Global South continued<\/a>, disguised as charitable donations.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n<p>As for slowing the flow, this was a job for green marketing. Growing cotton with the tiniest environmental and social improvements became &#8216;sustainable cotton&#8217;. Recycling plastic bottle waste (what a relief for the food industry) became &#8216;responsible materials&#8217; \u2013 and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.greenpeace.org\/international\/story\/6956\/what-are-microfibers-and-why-are-our-clothes-polluting-the-oceans\/\">a great way for those microplastic fibres to speed their way into the ocean<\/a>. And to hell with the complications of growing fair-trade organic cotton and textile-to-textile recycling! The &#8216;growth&#8217; show must go on!\u00a0<\/p>\n\n<p>Is this a matter of financial resources? Does the fashion industry lack capable and willing engineers and sustainability teams? No, the profits are huge and during our campaign we have met many dedicated people working for fashion brands or other organisations, who want to change the world as much as we do; but the money gets funnelled up to careless shareholders and what\u2019s left mostly gets spent on recolouring Hell on Earth in green.<\/p>\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/www.greenpeace.org\/static\/planet4-international-stateless\/2023\/04\/41fe18c5-gp0stv7bp-1024x768.jpg\" title=\"Textile Landfill in Atacama Desert Chile. \u00a9 Mauricio Bustamante \/ Greenpeace\" alt=\"Textile Landfill in Atacama Desert Chile. \u00a9 Mauricio Bustamante \/ Greenpeace\" class=\"wp-image-59444\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.greenpeace.org\/static\/planet4-international-stateless\/2023\/04\/41fe18c5-gp0stv7bp-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.greenpeace.org\/static\/planet4-international-stateless\/2023\/04\/41fe18c5-gp0stv7bp-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.greenpeace.org\/static\/planet4-international-stateless\/2023\/04\/41fe18c5-gp0stv7bp-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.greenpeace.org\/static\/planet4-international-stateless\/2023\/04\/41fe18c5-gp0stv7bp-453x340.jpg 453w, https:\/\/www.greenpeace.org\/static\/planet4-international-stateless\/2023\/04\/41fe18c5-gp0stv7bp.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Textile dump in the Atacama Desert in Chile. Old clothes discarded in the Atacama Desert, imported from Europe, Asia and the USA. Residents of the nearby town of Alto Hospicio, Iquique collect textiles from the mountains of trash and sell the used clothing at the local market. The rest is thrown away and burned.<div class=\"credit icon-left\"> \u00a9 Mauricio Bustamante \/ Greenpeace<\/div><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Ten years after the Rana Plaza disaster, the fast fashion industry is still crushing workers, greenwashing itself and destroying the planet<\/h2>\n\n<p>Where are we today? A snowstorm of communication with little connection to reality, glossy collections, or tiny, niche activities. Involve some famous designers! It\u2019s so much more sexy than talking about the hazardous chemical burden, non-recyclable waste and invasive microplastic pollution, or the conditions for workers and waste pickers. So in the end the status quo remains the same, on target for <a href=\"https:\/\/www.greenpeace.de\/sites\/default\/files\/publications\/20211122-greenpeace-detox-fashion-fairytale-engl-pt1.pdf\">206 billion pieces by 2030<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-embed is-type-rich is-provider-twitter wp-block-embed-twitter\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\n<blockquote class=\"twitter-tweet\" data-width=\"500\" data-dnt=\"true\"><p lang=\"en\" dir=\"ltr\">A few days ago, <a href=\"https:\/\/twitter.com\/SHEIN_Official?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw\">@SHEIN_Official<\/a> announced a $15m donation to an NGO working with textile waste workers in Ghana.<br><br>But without any drastic change to its ultra-fast-fashion model, this is in fact nothing more than a <a href=\"https:\/\/twitter.com\/hashtag\/greenwashing?src=hash&amp;ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw\">#greenwashing<\/a> stunt.<a href=\"https:\/\/twitter.com\/hashtag\/DetoxMyFashion?src=hash&amp;ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw\">#DetoxMyFashion<\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/t.co\/kT1O2y6vMx\">https:\/\/t.co\/kT1O2y6vMx<\/a><\/p>&mdash; Greenpeace International (@Greenpeace) <a href=\"https:\/\/twitter.com\/Greenpeace\/status\/1536332561760129027?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw\">June 13, 2022<\/a><\/blockquote><script async src=\"https:\/\/platform.twitter.com\/widgets.js\" charset=\"utf-8\"><\/script>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n<p>Brands even use these initiatives to sell their &#8216;green&#8217; products &#8211; promotion tools that hide the truth about the destructive fast fashion system, with consumers as the target. We decided to investigate some of these self-assessed marketing labels, to see whether the terms such as &#8216;Sustainable&#8217;, &#8216;Green&#8217; or &#8216;Fair&#8217; can be justified or backed up by better production conditions in the fashion supply chain. Our report\u2013 out today \u2013 finds that the majority did not meet the criteria for credibility, and are in a <a href=\"https:\/\/www.greenpeace.de\/publikationen\/Greenpeace_Report_Greenwash_Danger_Zone.pdf\">&#8216;Greenwash danger zone&#8217;<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" src=\"https:\/\/www.greenpeace.org\/static\/planet4-international-stateless\/2023\/04\/ab74a63e-gp0stowk1-1024x683.jpg\" title=\"Detox Catwalk in Bandung. \u00a9 Greenpeace \/ Hati Kecil Visuals\" alt=\"Detox Catwalk in Bandung. \u00a9 Greenpeace \/ Hati Kecil Visuals\" class=\"wp-image-59445\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.greenpeace.org\/static\/planet4-international-stateless\/2023\/04\/ab74a63e-gp0stowk1-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.greenpeace.org\/static\/planet4-international-stateless\/2023\/04\/ab74a63e-gp0stowk1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.greenpeace.org\/static\/planet4-international-stateless\/2023\/04\/ab74a63e-gp0stowk1-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.greenpeace.org\/static\/planet4-international-stateless\/2023\/04\/ab74a63e-gp0stowk1-510x340.jpg 510w, https:\/\/www.greenpeace.org\/static\/planet4-international-stateless\/2023\/04\/ab74a63e-gp0stowk1.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Indonesian models wear eco fashion apparels designed by Indonesian designers Felicia Budi, Indita Karina, Lenny Agustin during &#8216;Detox Catwalk&#8217; organised by Greenpeace in the polluted paddy field in Rancaekek, West Java province to highlight the toxic pollution brought by clothing industry as well as the idea that &#8220;Beautiful fashion shouldn&#8217;t cost the earth&#8221;.<div class=\"credit icon-left\"> \u00a9 Greenpeace \/ Hati Kecil Visuals<\/div><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n<p>But we did find some true gems among the shiny baubles and fakery \u2013 and some hints for a better direction. Credible brand labels from Vaude, Coop, with German retailer Tchibo also close to hitting the mark \u2013 back their claims with the best standards available today, and offer more options to consumers that want to be part of the solution &#8211; better quality, durable clothes, and choices to rent, to buy second hand, and to repair them. We also detected the beginnings of a true movement towards traceability<strong>, <\/strong>through product labels and webshop information for consumers that shows where the clothes are made and how &#8211; right back to the cotton fields.<\/p>\n\n<p>These signs are not only from the leaders; the brand H&amp;M, a by-word for fast fashion, has the beginnings of a traceability system, along with a newcomer on Greenpeace\u2019s fashion radar, Italian brand Calzedonia. While there\u2019s a lot to do to make this traceability more credible, it\u2019s our dream that the wastewater data from the thousands of suppliers that work with Detox-committed brands will be part of this traceability system too \u2013 just as we at Greenpeace already do with our own <a href=\"http:\/\/www.greenpeace.org\/textiles-standard\">textiles procurement<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n<p>Change won\u2019t happen in a day &#8211; it is not easy for big companies to shift to a completely different business model. But in the meantime fashion needs to cut out the greenwash and concentrate on the fundamentals \u2013 facts and figures, transparency and traceability \u2013 the true bottom line when it comes to tackling the multiple planetary crises and the only possible basis for credible change. This is the least that is owed to the victims and survivors of Rana Plaza.<\/p>\n\n<p>Rana Plaza survivors, including some who lost limbs or were disabled in the factory collapse,&nbsp;<a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"https:\/\/www.rfi.fr\/en\/international-news\/20230424-tears-protests-10-years-since-bangladesh-factory-tragedy\" target=\"_blank\">laid wreaths today for those lost and repeated their demands for compensation and legal redress<\/a>&nbsp;during protests in Dhaka marking 10 years since one of the world\u2019s worst industrial disasters.<\/p>\n\n<p><em>Viola Wohlgemuth is a Circular Economy and Toxics Campaigner at Greenpeace Germany.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The fashion industry needs to cut out the greenwash and show it is ready to change. This is the least that is owed to the victims and survivors of Rana Plaza.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":130,"featured_media":59445,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_planet4_optimize_post_is_variant":false,"_planet4_optimize_experiment_name":"","_planet4_optimize_variant_name":"","ep_exclude_from_search":false,"p4_og_title":"Enough of the circularity greenwash: slow fashion is the way forward","p4_og_description":"The fashion industry needs to cut out the greenwash and show it is ready to change. This is the least that is owed to the victims and survivors of Rana Plaza.","p4_og_image":"https:\/\/www.greenpeace.org\/static\/planet4-international-stateless\/2023\/04\/ab74a63e-gp0stowk1.jpg","p4_og_image_id":"59445","p4_seo_canonical_url":"","p4_campaign_name":"","p4_local_project":"","p4_basket_name":"","p4_department":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[73],"tags":[67],"p4-page-type":[59],"class_list":["post-59440","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-social-and-economic-systems","tag-consumption","p4-page-type-story"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.greenpeace.org\/international\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/59440","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.greenpeace.org\/international\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.greenpeace.org\/international\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.greenpeace.org\/international\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/130"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.greenpeace.org\/international\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=59440"}],"version-history":[{"count":10,"href":"https:\/\/www.greenpeace.org\/international\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/59440\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":59462,"href":"https:\/\/www.greenpeace.org\/international\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/59440\/revisions\/59462"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.greenpeace.org\/international\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/59445"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.greenpeace.org\/international\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=59440"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.greenpeace.org\/international\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=59440"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.greenpeace.org\/international\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=59440"},{"taxonomy":"p4-page-type","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.greenpeace.org\/international\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/p4-page-type?post=59440"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}